The Rosarios & Cartagena – N10.24.508; W075.32.588 – December 4 – January 7 2008 & Beyond.

The Rosario Islands are a small grouping located 25 miles south of Cartagena and a nice stop before getting back into big city living. The water is clear and inviting and the pace is slow and easy. We spent a week enjoying the tranquility (well that is except for one Friday night when the music played on and on and on and on and on…until Sunday morning…which in itself is almost bad enough, but they got stuck on one tune and played it over and over and over and over…I felt led to introduce a well placed flare gun shot into their generator, but calmer minds prevailed (Kaija said ‘no way’) and we all survived intact. One of the real treats was a visit to the local aviary where we were treated to close up and personal visits with birds of species we had never before seen. It was a great place to collect feathers for your cap. A must see if you are ever here. (collage 22 ).

We arrived in Cartagena in time to enjoy the lights and festivities surrounding Christmas. Cartagena is a big city with much history and there is much to see and do. Unfortunately, this year Kaija and I were separated for the holiday as she needed to be with her father in Vancouver undergoing treatment for Cancer. He is much in our thoughts and prayers for a speedy and full recovery and we are ever mindful of just how lucky we are to have our health and strength to be able to enjoy this experience and adventure. (collage 23)

In Kaija’s absence, Gary and Doc are enjoying their bachelor days living in complete chaos and disarray. We have contracted to have some extensive internal modifications done on the boat while Kaija is away, and as I write this, the sawdust is a flying, the hammers are a hammerin, and the walls are a comin down…and in the words of one of the contractors, in pigeon Spanglish…’Destruction Completion’…with any luck, we’ll soon get into the construction phase and get this destruction phase behind us. Living in a 50 foot tube 15 feet wide can be somewhat tedious and testing of one’s resolve. We continue to make efforts to improve the small space in which we live in an effort to keep the enjoyment level high and the dream alive. When all is complete, we will have reduced 4 small heads (bathrooms) to two good sized heads, one nice office, and one laundry room c/w new automatic washer…(no more wringing out the clothes by hand…no joke!) A testament to what can be done in ‘very small spaces’. An update! It is now the last day of January…things were to have been completed prior to Kaija’s return….no way Hosei!...not a chance in Manyana Land…however, we do make small progress daily, and albeit we will be here another few weeks to get all things completed…did I say ‘all things’…hah hah hah…I mean, two out of seven items contracted hopefully will be done…don’t ever undertake more than a handshake in a country where you don’t speak the language…you are asking for a very interesting experience…and altho mostly good…there are those ‘moments’ where you wonder just what you were thinking. Here’s a few pics of the destruction of one head which hopefully will be a lovely and functional nav/computer station. I will post pics of the ‘after’ of the ‘before & after’ if we ever make it to ‘after’. Till then, hold on and keep your fingers crossed for us. (collage 26 )

The San Blas Islands – N09.31.150; W078.38.884 – October 25 – December 03, 2007

Finally, on our way to the San Blas Islands of which we had heard so many good things. We were having a truly lovely sail on an almost perfect kind of sailing day, just enough breeze for KS to pick up her head and heel just enough for the added water line length that allows her to settle in ‘for the ride’.

We were busy just enjoying the day when Doc started running up and down the deck, a sure sign that his little dolphin buddies are close by. He must be able to smell their scent on the air, because we had not yet made any visual contact, then all of a sudden there they were, all around us. They jumped and dove and rode our bow wave with seemingly effortless ease. Doc was in his glory and it would seem that somehow he has made a connection with these creatures and they him. At one point however, it required a strong hand to hold him back as he was giving every indication that he was ready to join them and that would have added slightly more excitement to the trip than was necessary. After a long while and many miles the dolphin welcoming committee swam off and we again settled into a beautiful relaxing sail.

We began seeing our first local fisherman out in there cayuka’s, each with different colored sails (usually just an old bed sheet strung between a couple of poles), they would wave and smile and sail toward us offering their catch of the day, most often, lobster, squid, or snapper. But alas, one can only eat so much lobster, squid & snapper…and besides I had a rather energetic Barracuda on the line…not a keeper…we don’t prefer the taste, but occasionally we do cook it up for Doc…he loves it!

We arrived in Porvanir, our check-in stop for the San Blas Islands and did not yet have the hook in the water when we were swarmed by the indigenous people known as the Kuna Indians selling their wares. For many years now the Kuna peoples have been famous for their traditional Mola artwork. These are multi layered embroideries of the highest intricacy and two or three of the Kuna have become quite famous for their work.
After making our first Mola purchases and getting checked in we made our way to a small grouping of islands called Chichime, home to one of the more famous of the Master Mola makers, Liza. (collage 19.jpg)

We joined up with our friends Aaron and Lyla (S/v Blow Me Away) and met Liza whom we commissioned to make a special Mola of our boat depicting Doc and his little Dolphin buddies. We celebrated Liza’s birthday with her and she did a wonderful job on our Mola, a true keepsake. (collage 25)

The San Blas Islands are a chain of small palm treed islands surrounded by gin clear water with island names like Chichime, Tiadup, Olosicuidup and some we can neither spell nor pronounce and then there are the others named East & West Lemon Cays, E & W Hollandes, E & W Coco Banderos, Snug Harbour, The Swimming Pool & the Hot Tub, it is easy to see that many cruisers have found their way here and many stayed affixing names that more suited their purpose.

Almost every island is owned by a Kuna family and with permission you are welcome to visit. We visited many and found the families delightful and willing to trade and give you whatever small items they have, expecting very little in return. This is truly one of the unspoiled places we have visited on the planet…but you can see the changes coming as some are ‘wise to the ways of cruisers’ and are willing to take advantage if given the opportunity.

While we enjoyed the social life and hunter/gathering at the Swimming Pool, we also really enjoyed the Coco Banderos and Lemon Cays. However, Snug Harbour shall remain affixed in my memory as the place where I caught and filleted my first shark. How was it you ask?...well the eatin part was great, but getting to that part was tough and the filleting…hahahahhaa fagetaboutit… if you know what a sawsall is (for those unfamiliar, it is a power tool used in demolition construction)…then you can get the picture…I did not have a knife on board that would cut him…and getting him to stop breathing was no small feat…rubbing alcohol in the gills didn’t stop him…slicing the gills to bleed him didn’t stop him…hitting him in the head repeatedly with a hammer didn’t stop him…and dragging him to shore (no way I was gonna try cleaning him on the boat) finally after cutting half way thru his body with a sawsall …which was the only tool I had on board that would cut thru his hide…finally he stopped breathing and the filleting began….it was a long arduous task…but in the end…the little shark was some mighty fine eating…altho…all things considered…I think I would just let the next one go.(collage 21)

During our six short weeks in the San Blas we visited many of the islands. But there are so many more we have yet to visit and we look forward to doing so on our revisit when we depart from Cartagena in February 2008.

Portobelo – Isla Linton - N09.33.541; W079.35.023 - October 17 – October 24, 2007

26 miles east of Colon (Cristobel) (The Panama Canal) is Portobello. This small village is famous for the Church of the Black Christ and history tells us that a statue of the Black Christ was stolen from Portobello and catastrofe fell upon the thieves. A second attempt at a theft resulted in similar results. The statue was returned and miraculous healings have been attributed to this religious Icon of the Black Christ. Once a year pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed in traditional robes of scarlet and purple and gold, walking great distances to pay homage in this sacred place. It is a time of great celebration and fiesta and a great time to visit this small community. The anchorage is less than ideal, facing the prevailing winds and waves and can be somewhat uncomfortable, however, there are a number of stone forts to see and the settings are picturesque.

Only another 12 miles east is probably one of the best and safest all weather anchorages in Panama located at the Isla Linton. Many cruisers find this safe haven and stay for considerable periods. Certainly one of the most delightful parts of the stay is to visit with the monkeys on the island who are quite tame, as long as you are feeding them, but we learned that you do not say, ‘last piece’ in reference to the food offerings. These little ‘monsters’ can become very aggressive as we witnessed with our friends Lyla and Aaron. Unfortunately, we did not have a camera running, but I dare say I do believe I could have won the $100,000 prize on Candid camera’s funniest moments…in the end no harm no foul, but for a few moments, it looked like the monkeys were winning and Lyla and Aaron we way too busy doing the double boogie back step in unison landing in the dinghy, with the monkeys close behind. The only thing that saved them, was the monkeys will not venture into the water, but they were real close to commandeering their dinghy, camera and Lyla’s shoes…you had to see it to believe it… we laughed so hard we had tears in our eyes…all’s well that ends well!...but be warned if you ever go there for a visit, they are cute and taking food from you with such gentle sweet dispositions, you would never guess that beneath that cute, cuddly exterior there lies the heart of a raging beast.

Colon / Cristobel – N09.20.814; W079.54.585 Oct 12 – Oct 16, 2007

One cannot pass by the home of the Panama Canal without stopping. This was a good opportunity to do a final provisioning before heading out to the San Blas, do our check-out and get last bits and pieces that may be needed including bottom paint for KS. Panama has the distinction of being one of the few places on the planet where you can find/buy anything that is manufactured anywhere, because they sooner or later all pass thru the canal on the way from someplace to someplace. We anchored in ‘the flats’, the cruising anchorage and it was a somewhat rally anchorage being such a busy sea port with everything from huge supertankers and cruise ships to the smallest sailboats. Ships pass by here to go or come from the Canal. As advertised, this is an excellent stop for good provisions in Super 99 and Rey’s. Diesel, Gas & Propane are available here and of course the ‘Duty Free Shopping Zone’.

The Panama Yacht Club is friendly to transient 'yachties' and offers laundry at $1 per load, place to get rid of garbage, good food in restaurant and Internet. Having said all that, Colon is not a very clean city, and not recommended as a safe to walk about. Traffic is at a standstill most of the time, however, we were lucky to find a great taxi driver Mr. Ellington (The Duke) who was not only knowledgeable and friendly, but being a local, knows his way around, as he says, if he can’t find it, it can’t be found in Panama. We highly recommend him and look forward to a revisit with him when we return to this Path between the Seas for our transit to the Pacific side.

San Lorenzo Fort –N09.18.975; W079.59.997 Oct 11, 2007

This wonderful Fort is located at the mouth of the Rio Chagres River. Built in 1597 it was conquered and re-conquered many times over the centuries. It is said that it has had more gold pass thru it than all the gold of the California Gold rush.

The Panama Canal

A visit to the Panama Canal is not complete until you sit and watch the ships go through. Each ship requires 50 million gallons to transit the locks which are 100 feet wide, 84 feet deep and takes 10 minutes to fill each lock. There are three sets of locks and it takes a ship between 1 ½ to 2 hours to transit the three locks. These super ships are amazing but on the planning boards is the expansion of the canal to 140 feet which will double its capacity by 2014. We look forward to our transit of the canal in 2008.

Rio Chagres River and the animal life there. N09.16.681; W079.56.462 Oct 7 – Oct 11, 2007

Having just finished reading ‘A Path between the Seas’ by David McCullough (a must read for anyone who plans to transit the Panama Canal), we were excited to finally arrive on the Rio Chagres. This is the river that feeds the canal and our anchorage was just a short walk to the Canal. The River is home to a variety of White Faced monkeys, and Howler Monkeys, Sloths, snakes, Toucans, parrots & crocodiles. Gary and Doc had a most memorable experience on their first day as they hiked thru the Jungle trail that leads to the Canal. As they neared the end of the trail, they came around a bend in the jungle and there standing not a hundred paces away was a large Black Panther. Gary and Doc froze, as did the big ‘cat’…and altho the experience was only seconds long, it left a lifelong impression (on Gary at least). It was amazing to look into his face (with wonder, awe and a good sized portion of ‘oops what do I do now?) One of the very cool things to do here is visit the ‘swimming pool’ a natural cold springs and waterfall. As hot as it gets midday here in the Tropics, you only have to take a quick dip in ‘the pool’ and all you’re sweating is forgotten. A wonderful reprieve when you just can’t take any more of the Panama Jungle heat.

Escudo de Veraguas –N09.05.423; W081.34.425 Oct 3 – Oct 6 2007

This is an island that time forgot. It reminds you of Jurassic Park (without the dinosaurs). On our way there we were joined by a Hitch Hiker Moth (not sure that’s his technical name, but you get the idea) 8 inches across and not at all intimidated by Doc. Again joined by our friends on BMA we enjoyed the almost complete isolation from any kind of civilization (except for the ‘turn left’ road sign in the middle of the water) We enjoyed snorkeling is some of the most unique caves we have ever seen. Doc was sporting his T-Shirt which provides sun protection and keeps him cool. When you are big ‘ol black dog in the tropics, it is important to not only look cool, but to be cool. Doc had great fun chasing lizards and enjoying the cool clear waters. Gary had fun catching a big ‘ol Bonita tuna…can you say Sashimi?...now that’s some good eats.

Bluefield Laguna –N09.09.121; W081.52.907

Bluefield Laguna is another beautiful stop along the way. Somewhat disconcerting as you become the ‘entertainment factor’ for the locals. They will row out in whatever floats and just sit beside your boat and stare at you…for hours. They don’t ask for anything, they just sit and look at you like you are a spaceship from another world. The children are irresistible and the offering of a few candies makes them friends for life. There is also a wonderful trail thru the jungle that opens up onto yet another of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Cayo de Agua –N09.10.665; W082.03.308

This small perfect jewel of an Island is home to a few of the very lucky. One of those is our friend Daniel who arrived here from Peru 4 years ago. He now owns a piece of this private getaway and was kind enough to invite us to spend some time with him at this very private retreat. Along with our friends Aaron and Lyla on S/v Blow Me Away and Worth his wife Natalie and daughter Kayla we celebrate Gary’s Birthday (Gary from S/v Sea Feather). This island is home to a variety of nature’s unique wildlife including lime green frogs, snakes and green chickens??? Must be something in the dirt, turns everything green, including us with envy… a beautiful spot to stop and relax. This is also just a short hop from Zapatilla’s Cays which offers some of the nicest white sand beaches and snorkeling to be found anywhere.

Starfish Beach – N9.24.232; W082.19.528

This is a glorious retreat from Bocas, a short one hour sail away. With beautiful long sand beaches for Doc to run and play, crystal clear water with more starfish than you can count and shells a plenty for Kaija. She was thrilled to find this amazing Triton Trump shell, you wanna talk ‘pucker factor’…check out the face on this guy. This beach is a favorite with backpackers and it is not uncommon to see their hammocks strung between the palms. This is a must see if you ever get to these parts.

The Bocas Magnificent Flying Dinghy Machine - Bocas Del Toro, September 2, 2007

Ya’ll gotta try this!!

Oh what fun we had this morning as Keith from Air Land Sea Adventures dropped by and took us up in the sky in his magnificent flying dinghy…

no kidding!!.

...and there goes Kaija !!!

This is a flying dinghy with glider wings and a 55 hp engine turning a 4 bladed propeller that can take you 8000 feet in the sky.

I doubt that the inventor of the inflatable dinghy had flying in mind, however, they just might fill a void in the cruising community (that is if you have a spare 20k AND a 100 ft boat to house it… & therein lies the problem…but perhaps I digress)

It is about as much fun as you can have with your shorts on!

Dolphin Bay (Green Frogs abound) 09.11 N 082.13 W May 17 – 20 2007

Dolphin Bay is located just a short distance south of Bocas town and is just what it sounds like. As we sailed thru the cut, we were met by a pod of happy dancing dolphins. Doc was in puppy heaven as he pranced and paced up and down the deck trying his best to talk back to his little dolphin buddies. We spent a couple of nice days in this bay visiting with Mary and Carl S/v Camryka who are building a new home on the shores of this bay and also visited with David and Linda (ex-boaters) at their home called Green Acres, also known as the Chocolate Factory. They have 30 acres of cocoa plants and David has turned this into his hobby farm making organic chocolate. They provided us with a lovely walking tour of their small plantation and witnessed ourselves the process by which he produces some excellent tasting chocolate. His production facilities are rudimentary at best and looking around his small workshop it is hard to fathom that he produces the quality and quantity he does. But the proof is in the eating and it is ‘some good’.

Also, here, amongst the old shelled out cocoa husks we found the ‘Green Frog’ approx twice the size of our Little Red Frog. It was from this Little Green Frog, that David and Linda picked the name for their property, thus, Green Acres. We were able to enjoy one very nice dive and saw a tremendous example of Starfish coral unlike anything we had seen before. Between the hospitality, and the natural splendor, it was a very worthwhile visit.

This is an easy place to get two, by boat or plane, with daily flights to/from Panama City. One of the benefits of spending time here, is the number of places you can go and see, either by water taxi, (Changuinola, Alimarante) or train, or bus (San Jose, Costa Rica $10) and a number of small quiet anchorages when you feel you need a ‘getaway’.

Red Frog Beach (Short Cut) 09.19 N 082.10 W

We soon heard of Red Frog Beach, Dolphin Bay, Starfish Beach, all of which were a must see. So off we went.

Red Frog Beach on the island of Bastimentos is a windswept stretch of beautiful white sand beach and surf. Our main goal was to find the elusive Red Frog. These little creatures measure no more than the size of your thumbnail. They are bright red with black spots, but are elusive and difficult to find. The natives in the past have used these little Red Frogs to make their poison darts. It is rumoured that one frog has enough toxicity to kill upwards of several hundred people. We walked the entire beach and finally on the resting spot, we found one, well, actually we heard one then found him.

This is also a beach where the Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles come to nest and lay their eggs. Although we camped out two separate nights at high tide, we did not witness them come ashore, although, the next morning you could clearly see the tracks of two or three very large turtles that had ridden the high tide in, laid their bounty of eggs, (upwards of a 100) and floated back down the beach as the tide receded. This is one of a few different beaches in this area where these Turtles come to nest and just one more reason to come for a visit.

Bocas Del Toro, Panama 09.19N 082.10W May – Sept 2007

Bright and early on the morning of May 1 we set off with BMA with a good bit of breeze on our way south to Panama. The wind died around midnight and we ended up motor sailing the rest of the way, finally making Bocas just after noon on May 2.

Having just finished the book ‘The Path Between The Seas’ written by David McCullough we were very excited to finally be here. This is a country filled with tremendous history and is a place of rugged beauty and friendly people. It is an ideal Hurricane ‘hole’ and a safe anchorage and from a boaters perspective, there is almost anything you could want or need by way of provisions, although, not necessarily true for boat parts.

From a tourists perspective, it is a backpackers paradise, with a good many inexpensive ‘Hostels’ available and lots of places to see. It is an undeveloped country with tremendous potential and one only has to spend a short while to witness the amount of money being invested by foreigners and a new real estate office every second door.

The eating is good and has been recognized as being in the Top 10 places to go for combination eating and natural beauty.

We had fun exploring all the water holes on Lyla’s (BMA) birthday and making the rounds and meeting new friends.

Cayos Albuquerque 12.09N 081.50W April 21 – May 1 2007

We had an early morning brisk sail south to Cayos Albuquerque. These are two small islands located approx 29 miles south of San Andres. We met up with our friends Aaron and Lyla on S/v Blow Me Away (BMA) and spent the next few days enjoying their company and the beautiful snorkeling and fishing that these islands afford.

The two little islands are no more than an acre each and only 500 yards apart but are as different as night is to day. The one island is comprised of a number of small hut type structures in every manner of disrepair. It is a fishing camp and daily small fishing pongas arrive and take up residence for a few days while they fish the local waters. Some of these young fellows are amazing in that they can free dive quite easily to 60 feet and stay down there long enough to actually ‘spear the big one’. It is not uncommon to see them bring in 20 and 30 pound Grouper and Snapper. But what they have in fishing skills they lack in domestic skills. The island is quite the mess, with every manner of fishing hook, line and sinker strewn around and they tend to clean their catch and leave the tendrils where they fall, which makes for great eating for the flies and boy are their flies. Also, because a goodly portion of the fish cleaning product makes its way into the shallow water, it attracts a number of sharks. We had been allowing Doc to swim to shore but quickly changed that after seeing the size of some of these Darwinian monsters. One of the hammerhead sharks measures approx 30 feet. I think you get the idea. This is not a place for casual swimming.

The other small island is home to the Columbian Navy. At any given time you will find a dozen or so clean cut, well mannered young men who are eager to converse in any language, but in particular they want to learn English. They are well disciplined and they keep their little island spotless. Albeit it is all sand and coral, they sweep it daily, and have numerous paths all neatly lined with conch shells painted in different colours, a small exercise area with the most rudimentary type of weights, i.e. Conch shells in cement on either end of a metal rod, but it gets the job done. Doc and Gary had fun each day spending sometimes hours at a time talking in Spanglish (Gary’s version of English/Spanish with hand signs) but somehow both sides of the conversation were understood and friendships were made.

It was finally time to move on, and with some regret we said our goodbyes and left behind the Spanish/English dictionary we had been using with our new friend Amelio who had undertaken to teach the rest of his amigos English.

Where is KaijaSong Now? Click the hyperlink to view

- http://www.aprs.net/cgi-bin/winlink.cgi?VA7KSN

SAN ANDRES - WE'RE ON THE MOVE !

San Andres 12.34N 81.41W April 16 - April 21 2007

A very easy passage brought us to San Andres and a very nice tuna decided to join us along the way…can you say Sashimi? Now that is some kind of eating…mmmm mmmm good.

We are here only long enough to re-provision, fuel up…(there is no shortage of fuel in Columbia…mmmm and the price is reasonable 5,200 pesos a gallon, sounds scary don’t it…it’s actually only $2.60) This is a regular stop off for cruisers heading north or south because of all that this ‘rich little island’ affords. It’s not unlike shopping in San Francisco or New York and you can get most any kind of food products.

PROVIDENCIA - CAPT MORGAN, MR BUSH & ELVIS

Providencia 13.22N 81.41W April 8 April 15 2007

Sailing the 211 miles Providencia took 29 hours. During our passage we caught three fish, a small tuna, a 31-inch Spanish mackerel, a 37-inch barracuda, which we released. Between watching for fish and holding his bladder I am amazed at how Doc manages to ‘keep control’ altho there is some dispute whether this is a correct description during the ‘fish landing’ process. He is quite simply beside himself…and when the fish is landed, photographed and measured he sits enguard by the bucket with ‘his’ new prize.

Providencia’s check in procedures includes a visit from Mr. Bush and Elvis. Truly, that is their names and not only did they make the check in painless, but Mr. Bush was there to accommodate everything from laundry, to island tours and fuel if required.

Providencia is so laid back and joined to Santa Catalina island via walkway that lead to a lookout spot where Capt Morgan built his fort in defense of his pirate hideaway. If you look close you can see his image in the rocks.

We departed Providencia at midnight on April 15 for a wonderful nite passage to San Andres, the Hawaii for the Columbians.

VIVORILLOS - A LITTLE TOUCH OF PARADISE!

Vivorillos 15.50N 83.17W Mar 26 – April 8 2007

Early in the morning we departed for our overnighter into the Vivorillos, a small group of islands located 180 miles east. Just at Sunset we were joined by a pair of swallows (locals call the sparrows) who settled in for the night and the ride on a small line in the cockpit. Doc was mesmerized and spent the entire nightshift checking on his two new friends (or snack) not sure what he was thinking. They departed at sunrise after spending 100 miles with us. Maybe this is how different species migrate, but we were happy to have their company.

It was a solid 24 hours from hook up to hook down and no sooner had we settled in than we made friends with the local fishing boat out from Guanaja Lady Atty, and Arturo (the captain’s brother) was especially taken with Doc and by days end had provided us with 2 lobster, two good sized hogfish, and 3 lbs of cleaned conch (the cleaning is the tough part on conch…catching em ain’t too tuff, cause they swim slow:o).

The Lady Atty, had generator problems and had to depart for Guanaja to save their catch, leaving behind a solitary soul to guard their stuff. His name was Marvi, and Gary and Doc would visit him two or three times a day, and before long they were ‘fishin buddies’. Marvi taking Gary to his favorite spots and each day they would bring back 5 or six good size grouper, trigger, grunts and Gary got his first big hogfish…and she was a 22-inch beauty. We spent two weeks enjoying this wonderful place and were joined along the way by fellow cruisers and got to enjoy a fun get together celebrating Greg & Judy’s (LoneStar Love) Anniversary and Sonny’s birthday (Sonny & Kay, S/v Valentina)
During our stay, we had some very interesting weather including a ‘waterspout’ which came as close as we cared to view it, here is a picture taken by fellow cruisers of KaijaSong with the ‘spout’ in the background…note the size of the funnel and the water at the base.

One of the attractions during our visit was the nesting of the ‘brown booby’ and I do mean birds. Kaija had great fun walking among them taking pictures, despite her presence they paid her little mind and seemed quite comfortable in her company.

Once again, weather was the determining factor in our departure and with light but favorable winds we set sail for Providencia, around the corner of Nicaragua into Columbia Territory and a most pleasant stop along the way.