July 20,
2019
We were keen
to go sailing and with the breeze up and the sun shining we departed on the third day for a lovely day sail to Batanta
Island. We wanted to return to this
anchorage to dive the local reefs which surrounded the opening to this quiet anchorage and was well off the beaten path with the promise of a healthy reef to fish. We had a wonderful couple of days, playing in
the water and trying, and I do mean trying, to encourage the local lobster to
join us for dinner…but sadly (for us) they declined…despite our best and repeated
attempt. It is amazing just how quick they can be and quite obstinate when they dig their fat tails
in. Alas, no lobster quiche on the menu,
but it was all fun. The water clear, warm and
lovely and the coral teaming with colour and life.
Waterfall
Bay – Teluk Gegeniol
We had been told of a hidden waterfall on Batanta off we went in search of this secret hideaway. We found the
correct Bay…Teluk Gegeniol (Waterfall Bay) but despite having both Lat and Lon…and
decent instructions we failed to locate the waterfall which involved a
dinghy ride thru the mangrove swamp with all its twists, turns and shoal
waters.
The first day, no joy…However, on the second attempt, after
emailing our friends for further instructions, they confirmed we were in the correct location…we just
had to go a little farther into the jungle.
So next day, off we went again…and they were right.
It was just around the next bend…and there
was a long jetty in the middle of nowhere.
We tied up and stepped off into the mangrove swamp, ankle deep in mud
trying to find some high dry ground.
After a hundred feet of slip slidin away…we managed to find the remains
of what was once a trail and following along for a few hundred yards, picking
our way thru the under and overgrowth…VOILA…we could hear it…before we saw
it…and when we saw it…it was a very welcome sight…we were hot and sticky and it
looked oh so refreshing…and IT WAS!. We
had heard there was a second waterfall…somewhere, out there…another hours
hike…uh uh…not today…we enjoyed a couple of hours of lazing by the pools and
sitting directly under the waterfall for the ultimate of Aqua Massage. It was ALL GOOD!
On July 24 2019 we sailed north to Besar Bay and early the next morning Kaija caught a glimpse of a very large squid swimming near the boat. Unfortunately for me (Gary) Kaija does not like Calamari...mmmm too bad I hadn't seen this meal sized fella...
Together with Sv Jams sailed to the island to Pef and enjoyed a couple of days in this scenic
remote anchorage.
July 29,
2019
We set sail
for Kabui cut and had no sooner hoisted sail than the fishing line sang out and
we landed a lovely Spanish mackerel.
That was the good news, the bad news in order to get to Kabui cut we had
to navigate a large bay that was just chocker full of pearl farm nets. For the locals, this is no problem as they
know where the nets are…for us…not so much…it seemed no matter which direction
we turned, out route was blocked by another net…we were getting closer and
closer to the reef…and finally found ourselves on it. Luckily, it was a calm weather day, despite
the slight breeze, the waters were soft.
We managed without too much difficulty to free ourselves and with the
aid of a couple of local fisherman were guided safely thru the maze to open
water. We sailed north and just in time
to catch slack tide which is important.
Kabui is famous for ripping currents and if not timed correctly can be
either very exciting or extremely hazardous to navigate the twists and turns
and rushing eddies. If not familiar with
it…take your dinghy thru first and get educated…if it is not right…wait…there
is no plan B once you are in it…so you need to know that you can make the 2
mile cut safely.
Aug 10, 2019
We knew our
time in Raja Ampat was coming to a close and there were a couple of places we
still wanted to see. One of those is off the beaten path. A small island atoll called Penemu. Because of it's isolation it is what we would call a destination location. However, close enough to see before heading back to Wayag.
It
was a brisk day sail in less than ideal conditions...wind hard on and a pretty good wind chop on a 2 meter swell. Not many cruisers make
this stop. In part, because getting into
the anchorage is a wee bit of a nail biter.
It demands that you hug, dare I say…swipe the side of the rocky cliffs
on one side of the entrance channel to avoid grounding on a very sturdy piece
of rock located smack in the middle of the channel. Then if that wasn’t enough…you need to keep
close to the rocks to avoid a sagging overhead power line that provides
electricity to this small island enclave.
But once inside…you are in a very sheltered anchorage and other than the
daily tourist launches, coming and going, it is yours to enjoy.
After 4
glorious days of solitude we sailed north to one of our favourite wee
anchorages on the island of Mutus Besar.
This anchorage is tiny, with enough swing room for one maybe two
boats. We had it all to ourselves. The next morning we heard our friends on Jams
on the radio calling us as they sailed on by on their way to Wayag.
We joined
them on Sept 8, 2019 and a day later Wes and Stine (Sv Sarabande) arrived. A day later Lynn and Eric (Sc Amarula) and there two sweet doggies, Chui and Scrumpy.
We were with some of our favorite cruising
friends and in one of the most beautiful anchorages we have ever visited in our
16 years cruising. It don't get much better.
The next few
days flew by, swimming, hiking,
dinghy rides exploring caves on the far side of
the island,
Ukulele playing, and choir practice…Ain't Life Grande!
It was time
for us to go our separate ways. Our friends Eric and Lynn, north to the Philippines, Murry and Carol back to Waisai to drop off their guests, Along with Wes and Stine Sv Sarabande we set sail for the east side of Kawe which had 2 anchorages we wanted to check out. One for fishing was still close
enough to the outer reef for Wes to do what he does best…spear big fish…and
spear he did. We all ate well.
Between the two anchorages is a landmark location. 000 degree North...better known as the demarcation of the Northern and Southern
Hemispheres…more commonly referred to the Equator…
we had fun standing in both
hemispheres…Altho I can’t say I felt any inclination one way or the other (no
pun intended).
The locals had
rigged up a water hose from an underwater freshwater spring and it was
convenient to fill up the jury jugs and top off the tanks. It was a pleasant couple of days in a
beautiful out of the way anchorage.
It was time for us to say goodbye to this part of Raja Ampat. It is truly picture postcard perfect and we are glad we got to spend so many days, in company with such good friends and making such wonderful memories.
Time to head back south of the Equator. Ahead a memorable dive, fun with the scrum, a fantastic Birthday party and final goodbye to Raja Ampat...stay tuned.
