Batanta, Waterfalls, Kabui Cut, Pef, Penemu, Wayag & Kawe our final days In Raja Ampat

July 20, 2019

We were keen to go sailing and with the breeze up and the sun shining we departed on the third day for a lovely day sail to Batanta Island.  We wanted to return to this anchorage to dive the local reefs which surrounded the opening to this quiet anchorage and was well off the beaten path with the promise of a healthy reef to fish.  We had a wonderful couple of days, playing in the water and trying, and I do mean trying, to encourage the local lobster to join us for dinner…but sadly (for us) they declined…despite our best and repeated attempt.  It is amazing just how quick they can be and quite obstinate when they dig their fat tails in.  Alas, no lobster quiche on the menu, but it was all fun.  The water clear, warm and lovely and the coral teaming with colour and life. 

Waterfall Bay – Teluk Gegeniol

We had been told of a hidden waterfall on Batanta off we went in search of this secret hideaway.  We found the correct Bay…Teluk Gegeniol (Waterfall Bay) but despite having both Lat and Lon…and decent instructions we failed to locate the waterfall which involved a dinghy ride thru the mangrove swamp with all its twists, turns and shoal waters.   

The first day, no joy…However, on the second attempt, after emailing our friends for further instructions, they confirmed we were in the correct location…we just had to go a little farther into the jungle.  So next day, off we went again…and they were right. 

It was just around the next bend…and there was a long jetty in the middle of nowhere.  We tied up and stepped off into the mangrove swamp, ankle deep in mud trying to find some high dry ground.  After a hundred feet of slip slidin away…we managed to find the remains of what was once a trail and following along for a few hundred yards, picking our way thru the under and overgrowth…VOILA…we could hear it…before we saw it…and when we saw it…it was a very welcome sight…we were hot and sticky and it looked oh so refreshing…and IT WAS!.  We had heard there was a second waterfall…somewhere, out there…another hours hike…uh uh…not today…we enjoyed a couple of hours of lazing by the pools and sitting directly under the waterfall for the ultimate of Aqua Massage.  It was ALL GOOD!

 

On July 24 2019 we sailed north to Besar Bay and early the next morning Kaija caught a glimpse of a very large squid swimming near the boat.  Unfortunately for me (Gary) Kaija does not like Calamari...mmmm too bad I hadn't seen this meal sized fella...

Together with Sv Jams sailed to the island to Pef and enjoyed a couple of days in this scenic remote anchorage. 

July 29, 2019

We set sail for Kabui cut and had no sooner hoisted sail than the fishing line sang out and we landed a lovely Spanish mackerel.  That was the good news, the bad news in order to get to Kabui cut we had to navigate a large bay that was just chocker full of pearl farm nets.  For the locals, this is no problem as they know where the nets are…for us…not so much…it seemed no matter which direction we turned, out route was blocked by another net…we were getting closer and closer to the reef…and finally found ourselves on it.  Luckily, it was a calm weather day, despite the slight breeze, the waters were soft.  We managed without too much difficulty to free ourselves and with the aid of a couple of local fisherman were guided safely thru the maze to open water.  We sailed north and just in time to catch slack tide which is important.  Kabui is famous for ripping currents and if not timed correctly can be either very exciting or extremely hazardous to navigate the twists and turns and rushing eddies.  If not familiar with it…take your dinghy thru first and get educated…if it is not right…wait…there is no plan B once you are in it…so you need to know that you can make the 2 mile cut safely. 

Once anchored in Kabui Bay we settled in and relaxed.  We were joined by 5 other boats.  We all enjoyed a couple of days drift diving the Cut…east to west and west to east.  When you have fast moving waters it is fun to hold on to the dinghy and let the water carry you along. Pictured here is Kaija's fun find.  A cuttlefish.

Aug 10, 2019

We knew our time in Raja Ampat was coming to a close and there were a couple of places we still wanted to see.  One of those is off the beaten path.  A small island atoll called Penemu.  Because of it's isolation it is what we would call a destination location.  However, close enough to see before heading back to Wayag.

It was a brisk day sail in less than ideal conditions...wind hard on and a pretty good wind chop on a 2 meter swell. Not many cruisers make this stop.  In part, because getting into the anchorage is a wee bit of a nail biter.  It demands that you hug, dare I say…swipe the side of the rocky cliffs on one side of the entrance channel to avoid grounding on a very sturdy piece of rock located smack in the middle of the channel.  Then if that wasn’t enough…you need to keep close to the rocks to avoid a sagging overhead power line that provides electricity to this small island enclave. 

But once inside…you are in a very sheltered anchorage and other than the daily tourist launches, coming and going, it is yours to enjoy.

After 4 glorious days of solitude we sailed north to one of our favourite wee anchorages on the island of Mutus Besar.  This anchorage is tiny, with enough swing room for one maybe two boats.  We had it all to ourselves.  The next morning we heard our friends on Jams on the radio calling us as they sailed on by on their way to Wayag.

We joined them on Sept 8, 2019 and a day later Wes and Stine (Sv Sarabande) arrived.  A day later Lynn and Eric (Sc Amarula) and there two sweet doggies, Chui and Scrumpy. 

We were with some of our favorite cruising friends and in one of the most beautiful anchorages we have ever visited in our 16 years cruising. It don't get much better.

The next few days flew by, swimming, hiking,

dinghy rides exploring caves on the far side of the island, 

Ukulele playing, and choir practice…Ain't Life Grande!

It was time for us to go our separate ways.  Our friends Eric and Lynn, north to the Philippines, Murry and Carol back to Waisai to drop off their guests, Along with Wes and Stine Sv Sarabande we set sail for the east side of Kawe which had 2 anchorages we wanted to check out. One for fishing was still close enough to the outer reef for Wes to do what he does best…spear big fish…and spear he did.  We all ate well.

Between the two anchorages is a landmark location.  000 degree North...better known as the demarcation of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres…more commonly referred to the Equator…

we had fun standing in both hemispheres…Altho I can’t say I felt any inclination one way or the other (no pun intended).

Wes and Stine were on a schedule so they sailed off and we moved down to the next anchorage to explore an old Tin mine. 

The locals had rigged up a water hose from an underwater freshwater spring and it was convenient to fill up the jury jugs and top off the tanks.  It was a pleasant couple of days in a beautiful out of the way anchorage.

It was time for us to say goodbye to this part of Raja Ampat.  It is truly picture postcard perfect and we are glad we got to spend so many days, in company with such good friends and making such wonderful memories.

Time to head back south of the Equator.  Ahead a memorable dive, fun with the scrum, a fantastic Birthday party and final goodbye to Raja Ampat...stay tuned.