Cairns to Thursday Island - the Final Leg of Aussie sailing

The day arrived for our departure from Cairns and having said our goodbyes we set sail on our final leg of the Australian coast.  We still had 500 miles to go to Thursday Island for our Australian checkout and departure to Indonesia.

This leg turned out to be much easier than we anticipated having heard from fellow cruisers who had gone before, we were prepared for 30 – 40 knot winds and the accompanying often uncomfortable seas.  It was surprisingly pleasant.  We day hopped our way north and made our final stop on the Ring Islands, the northern most island grouping of the Great Barrier reef where we were assured we would see copious amounts of bigger fish and a healthier reef.  Unfortunately, the reef devastation that we had seen all the way from the Whitsundays continued this far north…the coral bleaching was wide spread and the lack of any readily visible marine life disappointing.  Only time and a much better managed commercial  fisheries program can heal this ecologically damaged and over-fished natural wonder.

We had been hearing of the salt water crocodiles in Australia since we arrived a year earlier and been warned against being in the water pretty much anywhere north of Bundaberg.  This was a bit of a bummer to those of us who enjoy being in the water as much as we do…but after hearing so many horror stories of people taken and limbs lost we decided that discretion was the better part of valor.  Consequently, wherever we went, we were on Croc watch…and after a while this turned out to be somewhat disappointing as listening to the locals…they are EVERYWHERE…and even when you can’t see them…they are watching you...but we never saw a single croc.  Maybe the whole story was just that…an Aussie load of Croc. 

Well...Not so matie!  We finally saw our first, one and only Salty, sunning himself on a deserted beach of a small island.  We did not hop in the dinghy to rush ashore and get a closer look, but based on his size from the distance of our anchored boat, he was a big ol fat well fed looking Salty and well left own devices.  For those sailing these waters, keep your eyes peeled at Wilkie Island.

Our final fishing story of Australia is best kept shorter than the experience itself which lasted a considerable length of time.  Normally when a big fish hits your lure, the line will spool, you let him run…he tires, you reel him in.  This fish hit with gusto…ran and ran and ran some more.  Finally it seemed to tire enough I could start getting a little line back…but not for long…as soon as the line tightening…off he went again.  This act kept repeating itself…and despite having stopped the boat and started backing up…I could not bring this fish in.  It was more than an hour of exhausting fighting to get this critter close enough to see just what sized fish we had and since our last catch was a Black Marlin we were hopeful.   

To our utter disbelief and disappointment, we discovered we had hooked a shark…and the shark had managed to get the line caught around his tail…which now explained why it was so difficult to reel him in…he was fully committed to swimming away from the boat and despite being only a 4 footer…he was all muscle and single minded.  We finally got him close enough to cut him loose and I am not sure who was more relieved…but if I never do that again, it will be just fine by me.

One of the highlights of this leg was stopping in Lizard Island.  We wish we had more time to spend in this beautiful little island paradise.   We actually spent time in water that was NOT so cold that we needed our wetsuits.  The reef was alive.  We saw an abundance of marine life, nursery fish by the thousand and relaxed mature stocks, giant clams, and brilliant hard and soft coral waving in the current. 

We enjoyed relaxing strolls along the soft white sandy beach and met a wonderful group of cruisers who make this their final stop as migrate north before the seasonal winds turn south and take them back to their home ports along the Australian coast.  They welcomed us and made us feel to home as we shared sunsets on the beach, beverages, snacks and great cruising stories.

With fair winds and calm seas we set sail to Thursday Island.  This is an Australian community that is somewhat over the top…it is a mix of races and expat Aussies mixed with a strong influence from the land 80 miles north…Papua New Guinea.  The town offers a surprising array of shops and provisions, but given its remoteness…it’s no small wonder. 

  

We enjoyed a couple of leisurely days exploring the sights and sounds of the town and had our final Pain o Chocolate from a small waterfront bakery before hoisting sail and starting our fun run to Indonesia.