Thursday, November 29, 2018

Triton Bay - NOW WE'RE TALKIN - A DIVERS PARADISE AND WHALESHARKS!


Stocked up with provisions enough for the next couple of months we departed Tual to sail northeast to the part of Indonesia known as Triton Bay.  We had heard the diving/snorkeling was world class and also I was very much looking forward to swimming with the Whale sharks.  Our overnight passage easy enough but unfortunately we, arrived in the dark.  One minute I was sailing along approaching the coastline, the next it seemed there was someone standing the bow flashing a light in my eyes.  It was unnerving and given our Bagan experience in Tual we immediately apprehensive. Over the next few minutes it appeared that no matter what direction we turned, there were random flashing lights. We did not know it at the time, but these are local fishermen out in small boats with nothing more than a flashlight...they could see us, but we could not see them.  Welcome to Indonesia! However, not knowing this, we diverted course and sailed an extra 15 miles south to avoid this unknown hazard.  It was worth it…as we arrived, we were met by a Humpback whale, a Whale shark, a very large Giant Manta and a pod of dolphins.   This is what we came to see.


We anchored in a well-protected bay in shallow sand bottomed water outside the Triton Bay Dive Resort.  This is owned and operated by a lovely lady named Lisa and her partner.  It is a beautiful setting with only 8 cabanas which are fully booked.  They are quite cruiser friendly and were happy to share local knowledge where to dive/snorkel and see the sites.  Lisa introduced us to their resident Couscous, a tree kangaroo rarely seen in the wild.  One of their dive locations proved to be absolutely outstanding.  So many fish of size and healthy hard and soft coral made the experience all that it could be.  We spent days just enjoying the local dive locations and found the house reef in the anchorage worthy of repeated dives…and enjoyed a night dive to see the elusive Walking shark.



We crossed the bay to a lovely anchorage and celebrated Carols Birthday





Next stop was Lobo where we enjoyed a pleasant hike thru this wee village.  Note the Gas station...the row of plastic bottles in the fence.  

From here a short hop to Muawara Bay.  This was a small anchorage that just fit our three boats. 
We enjoyed a spirited walk up (726 steps) to a surrounding lookout and while us older folk caught our breath Matt and Annie flexed their Drone flying muscles and entertained us with their aerobatic skills. 

 The snorkeling was fantastic and here Kaija discovered her first Spiny Devilfish and and Upside Down Jeffyfish...Who Knew?

We sailed north Raf Bay.  Here Kaija found only the second seahorse she has seen in our 15 yrs crusing, (the first in Porto Lytton in the San Blas Islands of Panama).  This little creature is small enough to fit in the palm of your hand.
We also discovered ancient drawings embedded high above the water line, begging the question...how did they get there and who was the artist.  They used an indelible Ocra colored paint and many of these unique pieces are still easy to discern.

It was time to find the Whalesharks.These amazing creatures are huge...growing up to 60 feet.
We dinghied to the north end of Triton Bay Channel and found two large Bagans.  They were feeding and caring for a baby Whaleshark.
They tag the baby Whale sharks and by feeding them daily they are assured of a financial resource as they charge a small fee to cruisers like us for the opportunity of swimming with them. 
It was well worth the small fee as the next hour was for me, a true life highlight. 
The baby turned out be approx. 30 feet in length and weighed??? 




and although at first somewhat intimidating…
I quickly discovered that he enjoyed the tactile contact of human touch as much as I enjoyed the up close and personal experience.

I have done a few exciting things in my lifetime...this is certainly one of them!
We will long remember our time in Triton Bay and recommend this beautiful place to any and all who can find it.

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